Sunday, 24 February 2013

Temple in Ganghwado



We approach the temple through a glade of bamboo and pine, with little piles of rocks at the side of the path which represent Buddhist pagodas, a throwback to shamanistic times when people prayed to rocks and trees. 

The temple courtyard is bathed in sunlight. From the wooden pavilions comes the sound of a monk chanting slowly, the tocking of a wooden bell. The main hall was built in 1621, though the existence of a temple here dates back much further. So many temple buildings were burned down during invasions and have been rebuilt over and over. The great bell has survived longer, from 1097.


What I find breathtakingly beautiful, though, is the carving and painting of the wood just below the heavy roof tiles; the dragons and phoenix and lotus blossoms. 


Yuri points out the delightful wooden figure of an unfortunate naked woman crouching, holding up the roof. The story? The architect’s lover ran away during the years he was working on the building, so in revenge and as a warning against unfaithfulness, he consigned this figure of her to hold up the building for eternity.



1 comment:

  1. Hi Jennifer,

    I wanted to write and thank you for writing such a well-written, inspiring book about Korea! Before I moved here I read it and felt excited at the prospect of having adventures similar to those you experienced! I've been here for four months now and am living in Gimhae, a small city near to Busan, and have definitely enjoyed some adventures but have started to feel a bit 'comfortable.' Re-reading your book has reminded me why I came here and that there's still so much for me to discover and see in this nation! You're writing is lovely, honest and so readable, I've enjoyed the book just as much, if not more, the second time around.

    I also wanted to ask a quick question regarding the Korea Herald. When you wrote for them did you write articles and then send them on to see if they were interested, or did you gain interest from them first and then write? I'm really interested in travel writing and would love to gain some experience whilst I'm here. I've inconsistently kept a diary and have started a blog but would like to try and take it further so I'd really appreciate any advice you can offer!

    Thank you and again I really loved the book, keep up the awesome work!

    Best wishes

    Laura

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